SIT Study Abroad

Final Post: Doviđenja! (Vidimo se)

I procrastinated on this post for longer than usual.  First of all, I have been doing some traveling in Europe, so I haven’t had a lot of time to sit down and reflect on my experiences this semester.  But really it’s just that I haven’t wanted to acknowledge the end of the program and studying abroad in the Balkans.  It was a wonderful, eye-opening, eye-shutting (as in tiring), difficult, fun, hilarious, touching, and as trite as it seems to me to write this, life-changing 15 weeks in the former Yugoslavia, and I am glad I chose to study in Belgrade this spring.

We wrapped up the program with a few gloriously sunny (well, except for when it rained) days in Palić, Serbia.  Palić is in Vojvodina, the northernmost part of Serbia that borders Hungary.  There is a sizeable Hungarian minority in the area, and so some signs had Hungarian, Serbian Latin, and Serbian Cyrillic words.  The twelve of us students presented our ISPs, and it was great to hear from everyone about what they had worked on for the past four weeks.  I felt proud of my classmates for the term; we have really gotten to know each other well, and even when sick or travel worn, we have always gotten along well too.  Congratulations, guys!  We did it!  ISP: boom, done.

Apart from presenting our ISPs, we also presented short photo essays about the places where we spent the four weeks, which was a nice window into the ISP period.  Belgrade, Sarajevo, Sanski Most, Priština/Prishtina, Mostar, and Banja Luka, – these were our final ISP locations.  Thank you to everyone who helped my friends and me with our ISP research and papers!  We appreciate it.

Most of the group also spent a few hours in Subotica, the nearest city to Palić, very close to the border with Hungary.  I noticed quite a few bikers in Subotica, as in bicyclists, and had to jump out of the unmarked bike lane more than once!  Vojvodina is very flat (and this is coming from a Midwestern girl), so it’s not hard to see why bikes are popular, especially when the weather is lovely.  Plus, ice cream was cheaper than in Belgrade!  There are some beautiful places in Subotica, including the former town hall.

the only photo from Subotica before my camera batteries died
Town Hall in Subotica

 

There was also an old synagogue, very pretty but in need of repairs.  Near the entrance to the property there was a sign commemorating the 4,000 Jews of Subotica who were killed in Nazi camps during World War II.  I am not sure who owns that property and building now, but there was a man cutting the grass and a sign for the renovation project that I hope will occur.

After visiting Subotica, we wrapped up the program in a final seminar, each taking a turn sharing our reflections on the semester.  Nikica, Nenad, and Orli shared as well.  That night we had one last delicious meal at our hotel, and we left the next day for Belgrade.  That was the last Friday night of the program, and we had our dinner with our host families at a restaurant on the Sava.  The weather was very warm, so I liked the change from how chilly it can be at night in Sarajevo.  I enjoyed the chance to meet other homestay families and introducing my host parents and siblings to my friends.  I have not blogged too much about the home stay, since it is hard to determine what to share on such a public forum, and what not to post, but let me just say that I had a wonderful time with the Andrašević family, and I will miss them (already do, in fact).  Thank you, Miroslav, Biljana, Ivana, and Katarina, and thank you to the other host families as well!  We had a great time with you all.

After the final dinner, when we wished Nenad a happy birthday, the program really was over.  I said my goodbyes to Nikica, Nenad, and Orli, which still doesn’t feel quite real, and to my fellow studenti the next night, when we all made it to our favorite bar one last time.  I hate to say “last time” because I know I will be back, and because I don’t want to be too sentimental in this last post… well it’s a little late for the latter, but really, this program was so much more than just a semester spent wandering around Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Kosovo.  The people I have met and the places I have visited will stay with me, and while I was already interested in the former Yugoslavia, I now feel like I can say that the region will be a part of my life in the future.  What does that mean?  I’m not too sure, but I’ll figure it out.  This is only the beginning: of travel, of studying this complicated jezik (language), and of my time in and out of the Balkans.

Hvala lepo, to everyone on the program, to Nenad, Nikica, and Orli, to the host families, and to everyone we met or encountered while we were studying abroad in the Balkans.

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Guest Post 2: Serbia in 2011

Shira Sacks is studying Political Science, Women and Gender Studies, and Entrepreneurship at Washington University in St. Louis.  This semester she is studying abroad with SIT in Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Kosovo, and she is spending the ISP period in Belgrade, Serbia.

Hello visitors to the SIT Balkans blog! My name is Shira Sacks. I am from Millburn, NJ, and I am in my junior year at Washington University in St. Louis.  For my Independent Study Project, I decided to study perceptions of European Integration of Serbia, perceptions of values in Serbia, and how individuals feel that the prospect of European Integration influences identities in Serbia and their own identities. Based in Belgrade, I interviewed ten students and young professionals, as well as six representatives of NGOs involved in human rights education and programming. Everyone that I interviewed has some college experience, some people are from Belgrade and others have come to Belgrade for university or employment, and all but one person is either in his or her twenties or early thirties.

I was attracted to studying values because of my own “identity crisis” growing up in a Zionist youth movement, and then entering the world of feminism, where proclaiming oneself as both a feminist and a Zionist seems very uncommon. Beyond the “isms,” the theories, the movements, I found myself confused by what it meant to believe in the equality of everyone—what feminism means to me—and to be nationalistic. The interactions of my values and identities instigated profound confusion, and led me to wonder how young people in Serbia are negotiating their values and identities today. In my first few months in Belgrade, I observed something hanging in the air: the prospect of European Integration for Serbia.  But what does it mean for Serbia to Europeanize? What are the non-economic implications of attempting to join the European Union, and how has the process of democratization been received in Serbia? And furthermore, how does the prospect of European Integration affect individuals’ values and identities?

During my month of research, I began to comprehend the complexities of language, the problematic nature of translating, between two different cultures, discussions of values, and that many people are not used to talking about these issues. I discovered that the most important aspect of my research is that I have created a space to talk about values. Many of my interview respondents said that people in Serbia do not seem to critically reflect on the significance of European Integration of Serbia. As someone who is both non-Serbian and non-European, my interest in opening such a discussion seemed refreshing, as well as intense, for my participants.

I encountered several themes in my interviews, of fear of change, of helplessness, of defensiveness, and of a lack of education, awareness, and reflection. Many people are afraid of the change that Europeanization entails, of the increased rights that will be given to LGBT individuals that counter what some people see as traditional values, and of the prospect of feeling small in a new world order. With the lack of public awareness about Europeanization and with the economic and political instability, there are feelings of helplessness—it is the EU or nothing, in some peoples’ minds. It is difficult to critically reflect about something that feels imperative, or inevitable. Some people are still hostile towards the West because of the wars from the 1990s, and the discourse that has existed in the media and the education system since the wars have not helped people reconcile. Finally, there seems to be a lack of reflection and criticism about the non-economic implications of Serbia’s Europeanization. This may be due to a number of reasons, but one is definitely that there is an absence of thoughtful public discourse, education, and awareness of EU Integration among most members of the public. One poll from December 2010, conducted by the European Integration Office, demonstrates that only 19% of individuals report that they are informed about EU Integration.

By the time you read this post, my paper will (hopefully) be complete. I will have done additional analysis by that time, but for now, I speculate that the implications of my findings are that there is a need for people to think critically about what it means to Europeanize; without thinking about and discussing these issues, people cannot be fully engaged in the democratization and Europeanization processes. They may also feel removed from it, which is dangerous at a time when news sources are predicting high numbers of abstention in the next election. One option, which has been used in both Ireland and Slovakia, is increased education and awareness through the space of a dialogue, debate, or forum. This may be effective in challenging the dearth of knowledge and reflection of the prospect of Europeanization of Serbia, as well as the lack of exchange between people with varying opinions and ideologies. However, in order to appropriately discuss and debate these issues and questions, people need to learn more, to challenge the sound bites they have heard in the media and from their peers; a debate of these would likely lead to more polarization. Civil society organizations have programming in civic education, but these have not been successful in reaching much of the population. Ultimately, I believe that there need to be increased efforts to transform the public discourse on Europeanization, and that this requires successful civic education.

It has been an incredible experience studying this topic and living in Belgrade, and I thank World Learning for providing me with this opportunity.

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Guest Post

Julieta Cuéllar is studying Government (Plan II) at the University of Texas at Austin. This semester she is studying abroad with SIT in Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Kosovo, and she is spending the ISP period in Belgrade, Serbia.

We’re halfway through week three of the ISP and I don’t know whether to be confident or panicked. Probably panicked. This wavering between panic and confidence (and excitement and dejectedness and motivation and utter listlessness) has really defined the last couple of weeks but from conversations with the other students this seems to be the norm. Uncertainty is part of the very nature of such an undertaking. Doing an independent project on such a tight schedule with very little time to plan involves taking lots of risks. Though you may write a great final proposal and get your project approved there is no guarantee that the people you are relying on interviewing will be available or that you’ll get to write on what you intended. But I suppose that’s what makes the ISP so interesting. I don’t think my topic has changed much since that final proposal but my interviews have been coming along slowly. But I’ll back up a bit to explain my project.

I’m one of the students who decided to stay in Belgrade because my ISP focuses on a Serbian popular movement of the late 90s called Otpor! (Resistance! in Serbian). I’m looking at the aftermath of the revolution (if you will, whether or not the overthrow of Milošević is “revolutionary” is still contested), at what happened to a movement that united people from all sides of the political spectrum under the single goal of getting Milošević out as it tried to decide it’s next steps and eventually attempted (and failed) to become a political party. I had a few ideas for my ISP but I decided on a study of Otpor! because it was very important to me to choose a topic that was above all relevant. I wanted to do something that could be of use to understanding Serbia today or even the experiences of other countries. And that’s exactly what a study looking a Otpor! promises. Otpor! isn’t just a popular movement that energized a hopeless generation of young Serbs—it has also served as an example to other student movements in Ukraine, Georgia, and most recently Egypt and understanding what happens after a movement like Otpor! succeeds can help us understand what may come to pass in the Middle East in the months to come.

I also chose to do an internship during my ISP. I am working three or four hours everyday at the Youth Initiative for Human Rights in Serbia. My first couple of weeks there were somewhat frustrating since it was hard for people at the Initiative to find work for me to do—not that they didn’t need the help but considering I don’t speak Serbian fluently and am not familiar with all the details of their projects, it took them a bit to find where I could help. I’ve now finally settled into some work there—helping enter signatures in favor for the creation of a regional truth commission (called RECOM) gathered from across the country into a database and acting as an administrator of sorts on the website for a leadership program that brings together students from Central Europe and the United States. I’m finally getting used to going into either the Initiative office or the RECOM team’s office (which still creeps me out due to the fact that other than many, many cats we seem to be the only people occupying the building) every day but now I’m having a harder time coming home and getting work done for my ISP. But such is life.

Aside from the details of ISP-time I thought it would be nice to write a little bit about Belgrade and the other reason I decided to stay here for another four weeks. It’s a city that I truly love and have loved from day one (surprisingly, considering I spent my previous semester abroad in a city that everyone seemed to love but me: Paris). Though I am eager to get back home I know I’ll miss it. There is just always so much going on and it’s got this beauty that will peek out at you when you’re least expecting it because Belgrade isn’t pretty and isn’t trying to be. It doesn’t purport to be anything but what it is—a city that’s got a hodge-podge of architectural styles because it’s been destroyed and rebuilt forty times (that’s what they say, anyway) and that has a progressive, urban population that makes up the bulk of “Druga Srbija” but whose inhabitants are also Red Star football hooligans and turbo-folk listeners. I suppose Belgrade’s best quality is its mystery. I felt from the first night here that there was something inexplicable about this city and that would always be inexplicable. It’s a city that’s constantly showing you different faces. There are moments when I’m walking and I think “New York” and then I’ll turn a corner and think “Mexico” and then five minutes later I’ll think “this looks like nothing I’ve ever seen before.”

I’ll leave you with a little taste of Belgrade written by Momo Kapor (who writes so eloquently of Belgrade and is a beautiful illustrator, but was also a loyal supporter of Serbian nationalism and the creation of a Greater Serbia—the paradoxes just keep piling up!):

“The clouds swirl above the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, combining mists with eastern and western winds—a dramatic sky, like a huge theater of some celestial battle. At any time of the day, the spiritual state of the citizens of Belgrade is portrayed in this sky.

The people who grew up on the rocky hill beneath this exciting panorama cannot but be of broad gesture, fierce character and changeable mood. These people, who despite everything, stay in their city, that crossroad of winds, even as history tears it down and turns it into ashes, covering with earth and layers of leaves the traces of settlements and past civilizations, are capable of rebuilding their city anew, time and again, in an easy-going and unpretentious way—a city of human proportions, comfortable as a well-known café we used to frequent since we were kids. A city that will not frighten the accidental traveler by its enormity, but will forever bind him to its heart with a hundred invisible threads.”

From “The Sky” by Momo Kapor in The Magic of Belgrade

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More time in Sarajevo

Last Friday, I spent a nice afternoon in the city.  I had a meeting with a contact for my ISP near the eternal flame at the intersection where Ferhadija, the pedestrian street, runs into Marshal Tito street.  The eternal flame is dedicated to the fighters who liberated Sarajevo on April 6, 1945, and I think it has been burning ever since the sixth of April 1946, when it was built, with the exception of the years 1992-1995, when Sarajevo was under siege.  The eternal flame is a popular meeting point, and also a tourist destination, so it’s prime people-watching territory.

After my meeting, I walked down Ferhadija street into Bascarsija, and I was hungry so I was on the lookout for some appealing burek.  Burek is popular everywhere I’ve been in this region, from Vukovar to Pristina to Kotor, Montenegro (a long weekend off-program on the coast).  I think I had my first delicious burek sa sirom (with cheese) on an incredibly snowy day in Vukovar, which seems like forever ago now.  Burek is phyllo bread with meat or cheese, and there are also similarly flaky/greasy pies with spinach, cheese, or potato.  Burek was a lunchtime staple for many of my friends, and in the Bascarsija there are buregdzinicas everywhere.

Spinach pie (not burek)

I walked to the Sebilj, an Ottoman-era fountain that is the heart of the Turkish part of this city, and found a buregdzinica sandwiched between the tourist trinket shops and cevabdzinicas (cevapi places).  The man behind the counter greeted me with an enthusiastic hello in English, and I responded somewhat automatically with a “dobar dan,” good day.  He then started asking me what I wanted in Bosnian, and I was sort of able to carry the conversation when it was about burek.  We chatted about where I was from (Ohio), and the other man in the shop said, “Oh, we know Ohio,” perhaps referencing the Dayton Peace Accords (ended the war, became the constitution for the state of Bosnia and Herzegovina), though I didn’t ask – next time!  I had plans for the nice, sunny weather, so after that brief interaction I walked to the Latin bridge, where Gavrilo Princip shot Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia in 1914, crossed the Miljacka, and sat on a bench near the Austrian-era music pavilion.  From there I could watch the people, trams, and cars on the other side of the river, marvel at the view of the mountains on all sides, and enjoy my burek with cheese (still warm).  There was some not-too-loud construction going on, I think to rebuild the mosque behind me.

Those mountains were where Radovan Karadzic and Ratko Mladic’s forces placed their tanks and mortars, firing into the city at will.  The siege ended some fifteen years ago, but the scars remain.  Many buildings still bear the scars from shrapnel, even in the old town where there is not too much evidence of war for the tourist.  There are also the famous Sarajevo roses, marking where a mortar shell landed and killed many people.  On that day, I walked past at least two: one on Ferhadija street, not far from the Catholic Cathedral and the Orthodox Church, where 17 people died and dozens were injured.  The other is on the side of the Latin bridge opposite the old town, and I have not learned that story yet.  And besides physical markers, I know the city is much changed since the siege.  It’s more homogenous, and every family has its losses.  Such trauma is not something an outsider can understand, but I hope I can respect it all the same.

Some Bosnian coffee (Mostar, in March)

On a lighter note, the staple “foods” here (besides burek or spinach pie) seem to be Bosnian coffee, sweets, and meats on the grill.  There are also many cats, including a very friendly one that our landlady Fatima seems to own.  The children on our tiny cobbled street love that cat and they are always running around outside yelling “macka, macka” (“cat, cat”) at it  at all hours.  I have to say I prefer random cats to the street dogs I saw in Belgrade.  I also have to resist temptation to visit every slasticarna I see (sort of like a cake/dessert shop and a café at the same time), even though walking up our hill definitely provides exercise.

For my next post, I will feature some guest posts written by my fellow students here in the Balkans.  I don’t plan to edit them and I think it will be interesting to hear from some other people here.  So next time: guest post!

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Sarajevo: Arrival

First of all, let me say that time has been flying.  I know I wrote about the end of classes and the start of ISP in my last post, so it’s not like I didn’t know pretty well that we were nearing the end of the program, but now that the ISP period is zipping by as well it is really odd to wonder at the weeks left.  It’s Week 13 as of tomorrow.  Also, it’s May 1.  As I know very well, since I had to fill out forms for my university about this before I left, this is a 15-week program.  I’ll say it again: it’s just about Week 13.  Crazy.

I had heard a lot about the ISP period before it began, from friends who have done other SIT programs abroad, and from our AD, program coordinator, language teacher, and host relatives.  Most had very positive things to share about the experience of conducting independent research and taking responsibility for your own schedule, contacts, and writing.  I will say that I think there is immense potential in this period for personal growth and some interesting research; I am not sure yet what that means for my own experience.  I know the ISP period is halfway finished, and I have some real work to do today on the roughly 40-page research paper that is my final project, but I still sort of feel like I did during my first days in Sarajevo: a little confused, a little nervous, a little excited.

Sarajevo

A view of the city from our walking tour back in March.

My ISP experience so far has really been shaped by my move to Sarajevo.  I mean, that should go without saying, but I have to say that I would definitely have a different take on the project and the program had I moved somewhere else or stayed in Belgrade.  Moving to a different country just two and a half months after arriving in Serbia at all has really been a change.  On a practical note, I had to adjust to a new currency, sort out a new SIM card for my phone, and manage to avoid getting lost.  Sarajevo is also largely Muslim, although the term Bosnian Muslim does not mean the person in question is religious.  However, there are many mosques, and I was surprised at first that I could hear the call to prayer, which I still find beautiful as I hear it across the valley that holds the city.

Much to my relief and happiness, I have found it difficult to get lost.  I may not know the names of many streets, but whenever I walk around the Bascarsija, center, and Skenderija neighborhoods (my usual haunts, since they are close to where I live in Bistrik), I always know where I am.  This is because the city runs east to west, with the Bascarsija’s pedestrian streets and stalls, the oldest parts of Sarajevo, at the eastern edge of my map.  The river runs through the city east to west also, and so between the mountains, the Miljacka river, and the fact that the major thoroughfares (with the trams) run mostly east-west as well, it is really not so difficult.  To see a map of the city online, click here.

I am often told that Sarajevo is small.  I think the only reason I have not realized this yet is that I do not know very many people, so I do not see them walking down Ferhadija Street (pedestrian-only) on a sunny afternoon.  There are many more tourists than in Belgrade here as well.  I am still not used to hearing English, so when I occasionally do I tend to immediately stare at the people speaking… oops!

Next time: post-conflict Sarajevo is post-siege Sarajevo; ćevapčići, coffee, sweets, and cats.

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